Wine Update: Great Argentina Wines for $10 - $20
We flew out of San Francisco two months ago, and although we have just begun settling into Mendoza, we have not wasted any time with getting to drinking, er, working on familiarizing ourselves with local wines. To date we have tried 65 wines, mainly Mendoza Malbecs. Mendoza is Argentina’s Napa Valley, and has approximately 2000 wineries, covering several different sub-regions and appellations. The part of Mendoza most renowned for producing Malbec is Lujan de Cuyo, and two other important areas are the Uco Valley and Maipu’. Below are some highlights from our tastings so far, as well as some wine you can buy today in the U.S. (no need to fly to Argentina to buy them, though if you’re coming let us know and we can help you find your way to the wineries.)
We initially focused on Uco Valley wines, an area that has recently begun receiving a lot of international attention and which has been heavily influenced by the hands of a few international winemakers and consultants. An interesting, great value wine is Lorca’s 2005 Poetico Malbec, produced with Uco Valley grapes, with yields of 1
bottle per plant. Their production is still relatively small (total capacity of approx. 450,000 liters), though the wine is readily available internationally. Malbecs produced by Salentein are also highly regarded, and as their production is a bit higher (3 million liters), their wines may be a bit easier to obtain in the U.S.
After our initial exploration of Uco Valley, we’ve moved on to the classic Lujan de Cuyo Malbecs. Lujan de Cuyo is considered to produce the very best Malbecs in Argentina, and we’re looking forward to verifying this for ourselves! Lujan de Cuyo produces Achaval Fererer’s wines, which many consider to be the best of the best. We attended a winemaker evening last week, and had a chance to sample Achaval Ferrer’s portfolio and learn their winemaking philosophy; as these aren’t value wines more information will follow in a later post.
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Ruca Malen produces some great, funky, terroir-driven wines, among them a stellar Malbec. Their 2006 Malbec contains grapes from both the Uco Valley and from Lujan de Cuyo, as well as an interesting twist (12% Petit Verdot and 8% Tempranillo grapes.) This wine is a steal at $15, and pairs really well with game, as we’ve enjoyed it at Molokai, one of our favorite restaurants, with a smoked deer ravioli (delicious – sorry Bambi!) and Patagonian lamb.
Another winery producing great yet still affordable wines from this region is Lagarde. When we visited their tasting room we were impressed by the very solid quality levels across the board, especially within their Guarda line. They produce both a Guarda Malbec DOC, as well as a very elegant, complex blend called “Guarda” which is a blend of Malbec (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (20%) and Syrah (10%.) Guarda opens up nicely, and was nice to drink on its own and very food friendly when we enjoyed it out our other favorite restaurant, Ocho Cepas. It paired both with J’s dinner of grass-fed steak and my trout and egg scramble on brioche (it tasted much better than it sounds.)
An interesting wine to try is Bodega Benegas Don Tiburcio 2006, a very balanced, drinkable wine which is 50% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot. This wine is a great way to understand the style that Michelle Rolland lends to a winery (he consults with Bodega Benegas), and is a steal for less than $15.
Last but not least, try Alta Vista Premium Torrontes 2008. It’s a very balanced, elegant Torrontes produced from high altitude vineyards in Salta (the home of the best Torrontes.) We’ve had fun trying the different styles of Torrontes, and it’s a varietal that is very easy to drink. Tapiz produces an award-winning fruit-forward Torrontes which is great on a hot day and which we’ve found helps pass the time when stuck on a bus during a border crossing. Alta Vista’s style is crisper and has great acidity to balance out the fruit. It is full of honeydew, honey suckle, pears, orchids, basil, lemonade, with hints of a dusty, rocky terroir. No, it’s not a Malbec, but it is a very refreshing wine produced by one of the wineries in Argentina producing stellar Old-World style wines in the New World. At $15, you may even want to buy a case to stock up for summertime.
We initially focused on Uco Valley wines, an area that has recently begun receiving a lot of international attention and which has been heavily influenced by the hands of a few international winemakers and consultants. An interesting, great value wine is Lorca’s 2005 Poetico Malbec, produced with Uco Valley grapes, with yields of 1
bottle per plant. Their production is still relatively small (total capacity of approx. 450,000 liters), though the wine is readily available internationally. Malbecs produced by Salentein are also highly regarded, and as their production is a bit higher (3 million liters), their wines may be a bit easier to obtain in the U.S.After our initial exploration of Uco Valley, we’ve moved on to the classic Lujan de Cuyo Malbecs. Lujan de Cuyo is considered to produce the very best Malbecs in Argentina, and we’re looking forward to verifying this for ourselves! Lujan de Cuyo produces Achaval Fererer’s wines, which many consider to be the best of the best. We attended a winemaker evening last week, and had a chance to sample Achaval Ferrer’s portfolio and learn their winemaking philosophy; as these aren’t value wines more information will follow in a later post.
.
Ruca Malen produces some great, funky, terroir-driven wines, among them a stellar Malbec. Their 2006 Malbec contains grapes from both the Uco Valley and from Lujan de Cuyo, as well as an interesting twist (12% Petit Verdot and 8% Tempranillo grapes.) This wine is a steal at $15, and pairs really well with game, as we’ve enjoyed it at Molokai, one of our favorite restaurants, with a smoked deer ravioli (delicious – sorry Bambi!) and Patagonian lamb.Another winery producing great yet still affordable wines from this region is Lagarde. When we visited their tasting room we were impressed by the very solid quality levels across the board, especially within their Guarda line. They produce both a Guarda Malbec DOC, as well as a very elegant, complex blend called “Guarda” which is a blend of Malbec (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (20%) and Syrah (10%.) Guarda opens up nicely, and was nice to drink on its own and very food friendly when we enjoyed it out our other favorite restaurant, Ocho Cepas. It paired both with J’s dinner of grass-fed steak and my trout and egg scramble on brioche (it tasted much better than it sounds.)
An interesting wine to try is Bodega Benegas Don Tiburcio 2006, a very balanced, drinkable wine which is 50% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot. This wine is a great way to understand the style that Michelle Rolland lends to a winery (he consults with Bodega Benegas), and is a steal for less than $15.
Last but not least, try Alta Vista Premium Torrontes 2008. It’s a very balanced, elegant Torrontes produced from high altitude vineyards in Salta (the home of the best Torrontes.) We’ve had fun trying the different styles of Torrontes, and it’s a varietal that is very easy to drink. Tapiz produces an award-winning fruit-forward Torrontes which is great on a hot day and which we’ve found helps pass the time when stuck on a bus during a border crossing. Alta Vista’s style is crisper and has great acidity to balance out the fruit. It is full of honeydew, honey suckle, pears, orchids, basil, lemonade, with hints of a dusty, rocky terroir. No, it’s not a Malbec, but it is a very refreshing wine produced by one of the wineries in Argentina producing stellar Old-World style wines in the New World. At $15, you may even want to buy a case to stock up for summertime.
Brother Can You Spare a Bullion?
Ooooo. I don't feel so good. Let's play!
So we signed up for the 210 plan from OSDE. In exchange for our monthly premium, we pretty much get full coverage, emergency care in neighboring countries, and 40% off already cheap drugs. It also includes basic dental and vision, and did I mention there is absolutely no deductible? So what does this kind of medical coverage run us here in Argentina? About $260 USD a month for the whole family!
Naturally Siena, who is a master of timing anyways, decided it would be a good time to get sick. So after her fever passed 100, we called the number in the book for “urgencies.” They asked us a few short questions, then asked to verify our address was correct. Apparently they pulled our account up immediately from the caller ID. They said they would send a doctor out to our apartment in about 2 hours. Yes, house calls are included too.
When the doctor arrived, she made a diagnosis and basically prescribed us the local equivalent of children’s Tylenol. We were worried that she didn’t prescribe antibiotics, but Siena seemed to be in overall good spirits, and the doctor was adamant there was no infection, (Siena had been tugging on her ears) but prescribed a home solution of sterile water and alcohol to clean her ears.
She told us to call her if Siena was still sick in 2 days, but just as we were starting to really get scared, Siena’s fever broke and she recovered quickly. All in all, it was a little scary as this was the first time she had been sick (and she is almost one year), but we had great peace of mind that with our insurance she would have the best care available.
After Siena was well, we headed out to explore Mendoza a little more. We walked by a meat market that was full of locals. I have learned to keep my mouth shut when I walk into a store in Argentina, as the price usually goes up the more I talk. I simple said “hola” and asked how much for a bottle of water in pretty good accented Spanish. Due to my dark complexion, I can sometimes pass for someone of a vague Latino background as long as I don’t say too much. The man quoted me the locals price, about half of what the American price usually is. However, when he rang me up (on his Windows based POS system I might add) he apologized for not having the .40 pesos change (about 10 cents) and instead handed me a receipt and a small silver wrapped candy. There is a shortage of change here in Argentina, as often happens historically when the value of a currency falls precipitously passed the value of the metal that makes up the coins. So with an amused smile we thanked him and went outside.
When I opened the candy to eat it, I discovered that it was in fact a bullion cube. Well, that makes sense, as it was a butcher shop. At about a dime, I think I came out ahead on this particular transaction. But that is very Argentina. That night I made a delicious bean soup.
Top Ten Tips for Travel with Babies
Below is a top ten list of lessons learned about slow travel with babies within Latin America (since doing anything quickly is out of the question!)
1. Don’t worry about being one of the first ones to the bus terminal, airport boarding gate, or even immigrations lines. If you have a baby, you automatically have the right to cut to the front of the line, no questions asked. If no one officious waves you to the front, simply walk up to the front of the line and those in line will waive you through. When on public transit, you’ll always get a seat, and if no one seems to offer right away the bus driver will announce that someone needs to get up to make a seat available to the lady with the baby.
2. Don’t bring a lot of toys and baby gear as the baby won’t ever use them after leaving the U.S. Siena’s favorite toys generally fall into the categories of water bottles, remote controls, or “yuckies on the floor.” Baby clothes, strollers, highchairs, etc are available even in small towns, and not worth the hassle of carting around while you search for a long-term apartment.
3. Bring the baby everywhere with you, even places that you wouldn’t normally bring a baby in the U.S. Babies are great at breaking the ice, and as family is so highly regarded in Latin America, babies are welcome just about everywhere. The one exception to this was in Santiago where many cafes and restaurants allow smoking; there is a law there that states that minors under the age of 18 aren’t allowed in smoking establishments. Aside from this, we’ve taken Siena everywhere, and perhaps because of this she has become a very sociable, adaptable, and well-behaved baby.
4. Teach the baby a few key words in the local language as this will help her to make friends and bring about smiles from all. “Ciao” or “chau” is pretty easy for babies to say, and “hola” is also a winner. Your baby will feel extremely proud of herself when she’s able to communicate with all of the new friends she’s making, and her happiness is contagious.
5. Carry hand sanitizer with you, always. It’s not uncommon for strangers to grab your baby’s hands, touch her face, or to request to pick her up, especially in Argentina. However, as you don’t know where the kindly older lady or 5 year old’s hands have been, after they’ve interacted with your baby and have moved on, make sure you clean off baby’s hands. Her hands probably need a cleaning anyways if she has begun to crawl.
6. Purchase healthcare insurance, as in many countries around the world there is universal healthcare, but those who can afford it opt into the private system. The public doctors are known for being good though with outdated equipment and facilities, which may not be sufficient for a baby. We purchased healthcare insurance earlier this week, and were pleasantly surprised at the depth of coverage offered for the price. Knowing that we have this has given us tremendous peace of mind.
7. If you’re a nursing mom, know that you’re not alone, and that people will often ask you what your baby eats and whether you’re nursing. It’s a common sight to see women nursing their babies in public, even while grocery shopping or walking down the street.
8. Diaper changing stations are nonexistent, so plan on changing a dirty diaper whenever and wherever the urge strikes.
9. Trust your instincts. While it’s generally a good idea to be flexible and adapt to local customs, follow your parenting instincts as you’re the only one who knows what is best for your baby. This sometimes will put you in an awkward position, but is the right thing to do in the long run. This generally comes into play when needing to find a tactful way to decline the offer of numerous sweets for your baby.
10. Most importantly, have fun! Try to see all of these new experiences from your baby’s perspective, and remember that this time will pass quickly so cherish these adventures with your family. Take time to relax and, if your baby is anything like Siena, make singing and dancing a regular part of your day.
A baby carrier is a great way to bond with your baby as well as ditch that bulky stroller.
1. Don’t worry about being one of the first ones to the bus terminal, airport boarding gate, or even immigrations lines. If you have a baby, you automatically have the right to cut to the front of the line, no questions asked. If no one officious waves you to the front, simply walk up to the front of the line and those in line will waive you through. When on public transit, you’ll always get a seat, and if no one seems to offer right away the bus driver will announce that someone needs to get up to make a seat available to the lady with the baby.
2. Don’t bring a lot of toys and baby gear as the baby won’t ever use them after leaving the U.S. Siena’s favorite toys generally fall into the categories of water bottles, remote controls, or “yuckies on the floor.” Baby clothes, strollers, highchairs, etc are available even in small towns, and not worth the hassle of carting around while you search for a long-term apartment.
"I eat this, right?" Anything can be a toy.
3. Bring the baby everywhere with you, even places that you wouldn’t normally bring a baby in the U.S. Babies are great at breaking the ice, and as family is so highly regarded in Latin America, babies are welcome just about everywhere. The one exception to this was in Santiago where many cafes and restaurants allow smoking; there is a law there that states that minors under the age of 18 aren’t allowed in smoking establishments. Aside from this, we’ve taken Siena everywhere, and perhaps because of this she has become a very sociable, adaptable, and well-behaved baby.
4. Teach the baby a few key words in the local language as this will help her to make friends and bring about smiles from all. “Ciao” or “chau” is pretty easy for babies to say, and “hola” is also a winner. Your baby will feel extremely proud of herself when she’s able to communicate with all of the new friends she’s making, and her happiness is contagious.
5. Carry hand sanitizer with you, always. It’s not uncommon for strangers to grab your baby’s hands, touch her face, or to request to pick her up, especially in Argentina. However, as you don’t know where the kindly older lady or 5 year old’s hands have been, after they’ve interacted with your baby and have moved on, make sure you clean off baby’s hands. Her hands probably need a cleaning anyways if she has begun to crawl.
6. Purchase healthcare insurance, as in many countries around the world there is universal healthcare, but those who can afford it opt into the private system. The public doctors are known for being good though with outdated equipment and facilities, which may not be sufficient for a baby. We purchased healthcare insurance earlier this week, and were pleasantly surprised at the depth of coverage offered for the price. Knowing that we have this has given us tremendous peace of mind.
7. If you’re a nursing mom, know that you’re not alone, and that people will often ask you what your baby eats and whether you’re nursing. It’s a common sight to see women nursing their babies in public, even while grocery shopping or walking down the street.
8. Diaper changing stations are nonexistent, so plan on changing a dirty diaper whenever and wherever the urge strikes.
9. Trust your instincts. While it’s generally a good idea to be flexible and adapt to local customs, follow your parenting instincts as you’re the only one who knows what is best for your baby. This sometimes will put you in an awkward position, but is the right thing to do in the long run. This generally comes into play when needing to find a tactful way to decline the offer of numerous sweets for your baby.
10. Most importantly, have fun! Try to see all of these new experiences from your baby’s perspective, and remember that this time will pass quickly so cherish these adventures with your family. Take time to relax and, if your baby is anything like Siena, make singing and dancing a regular part of your day.
