Talk to any expat long enough and they will likely whine about the things they miss most from home. These range from the mundane, such as a freakin’ pillow that actually works, to, well, the slightly less mundane such as…a stove…that actually works. But nine times out of ten, the thing they miss most will be some type of food or drink. From the San Francisco foodie who misses those great organic vegetables and greens, to the not-so-foodie who misses Velveeta and Starbucks, it is the food we pine for.
So it was when we lived in Mendoza, Argentina, the land of plenty-of-wine, that I found myself missing that other divine beverage, beer. Aside from one distant microbrewery, Cerveza Jerome, there was no good beer. In general, that is the case in most of Latin America. So imagine my delight, and many nights of inebriation, upon moving to Valdivia, Chile, home to Chile’s burgeoning artisanal microbrew movement. Valdivia was host to a wave of German immigrants who brought with them the knowledge and appreciation of that highest of crafts: Beermaking. Today there is a beer renaissance happening in Chile, and Valdivia is ground zero. Below is the first of what I hope to be many reviews on good substitutes for some of those things from home I have missed.
Four of my Favorite Chilean Beers
- Szot – Pale Ale
Overall, Szot gets my award for the best all around brewery in Chile. None of their beers are stinkers, and while none are my absolute favorite, they are all up there. The Pale Ale is a golden amber color, and has nice citrus fruit and spice aromatics. A good, complex beer with medium mouthfeel, a distinctive front and back end with a surge of orange peel just before a cleaner sweet malt finish. When poured it had a nice head, but it quickly disappeared. Szot is located in Santiago, the only brewery reviewed here not from the local area.
- Kunstmann – Gran Torobayo
The fact that I can hardly read my notes on the Gran Torobayo shows how excited I was by it. One of the few complaints I have about the beers here in general is the homogeneity of the hops. The hop revolution has yet to hit Chile. Immediately I noticed how different the Kunstmann hops were. My excitement somewhat faded after reading that the hops were imported from southern Germany. This amber beauty had an excellent balance of malt and hops, great citrus, and carmalized onion.
- Salzburg – Doppelbock
Not sure what constitutes doppelbock, as this beer was basically a porter. Very dark beer with dark toasted malt and acorn aromas. Creamy upfront, with a dominant dark roast barely flavor, and a toasted chestnut finish. Medium body, not too syrupy.
- Petermann – Pozo de Oro (blonde ale)
Saved the best for last. This beer just blew me away from the first sip. Very floral aroma, with wild blossoms, spice and dried apricots/membrillo. The mouthful was a little fuller than a typical blonde ale, a bit more like a pilsner but still had higher CO2. Waves of creamy, salty sweet malt, apricot, with clean hops and hints of ginger on the finish. Jen, my wife and a certified sommelier summed it up quite nicely. “The balance! The layers! The finish!”









again. bastard. just you wait. we’ll build a kick ass Craft Beer brewery in Central America. you’ll see!
Build, and I will come…to drink all your beer!
Great post. I’m a brewer from Michigan and lived in Chile for the first third of 2010. I actually worked/volunteered at Szot as a brewer in Santiago and am really proud of the beers that they are producing. The negra stout and rubia vapor are favorites of mine. All around, there are amazing beers coming from quality breweries in Chile and I think a lot has to do with Chile’s very hard, mineral-rich water. It makes for amazing wines, but most importantly, amazing beers. Cheers on bringing attention to these great breweries!
Thanks for the comment Scott! Yeah, Kurt mentioned you on Facebook. Did you get to try a lot of the other brewers down south?
Hola from the barrio,Thanks for all the great beer info.I am here in Curico,Chile kicking around a half-assed idea of brewing my own…I need to drink my way south and experience Chileś brews firsthand…Salute!
Hi Donn, thanks for popping in! There are some interesting micro-brews down south in Valdivia, 10-20 that I can think of off the top of my head, so I can think of no better excuse for a visit to Southern Chile. Cheers!
[...] one of the best deals around for $1 US. If you get thirsty along the way, hop off at either the Kuntsmann or Salzburg breweries. While there, enjoy a schop (draft beer) and crudo (local specialty of raw beef on [...]