Nieba Skyline along the Valdivian Coast

Living abroad as an expat and traveling are very different things.  Tourists hit all of the hot spots within a few days, checking them off their list before moving on to the next town.  Living in a foreign country is very different, as real life jumps back into the picture and takes up a huge amount of time.  Paying the electricity bill requires waiting in line to pay a cashier in person, applying for residency requires numerous trips downtown and a voyage across the country, and shopping for kitchen appliances takes hours and still leaves us empty-handed. Seemingly small errands take a long time, and lately have required strategic timing in order to avoid the type of unpleasantness we encountered in Santiago. Therefore, after working and running errands during the week, every weekend we try to fit in some local tourism to relax and explore Patagonia.  Last weekend we grabbed the bus to the ocean to explore the nearby beach town of Niebla in the off-season.

Niebla is known for it’s two summertime costumbrista festivals (which is not, as I had originally assumed, a costume festival; it is a customs festival!)  These festivals showcase local crafts, customs, and food, and are open every day once the weather warms up in January and February.  Many tourists head to Niebla for a bite to eat, then jump on a boat to see the ancient fortifications remaining across the water in nearby Corral.  Last weekend we headed to Niebla to get a glimpse of this summertime town in the winter, and found it very, very quiet.

Lonely Winter Coastline in Niebla

The drive from Isla Teja to Niebla is simply stunning, running along the river and through the mountains.  Once we arrived in Niebla, we jumped off the bus where the ferry to Corral picks up, though learned that the boat runs only once an hour and we had just missed it.  Feeling a bit conspicuous as the only foreigners in a small town, we decided to roll with it and began snapping a few pictures.  As you can see from the photo, Chileans aren’t afraid to stare!

We strolled through the town, from the ferry stop to the bus terminal, walking past houses and a few restaurants in the hilly town.  Niebla itself seemed to be asleep, waiting for summer, though we enjoyed being near the ocean.  The salty air felt crisper, and smelled wonderfully like home.  We left Niebla with a strong suspicion that there is more for us to discover, and are looking forward to venturing back to grab the boat to Corral and further explore sleepy coastal Valdivia.